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Winemaker: Nick Goldschmidt

These days, you hear more and more about winemakers who participate in projects in places farflung from their home bases. A Napa winemaker might be growing grapes in New Zealand (like Tom Eddy’s TENZ Sauvignon Blanc), or an Australian winemaker teaming up with a Rhone producer (like the Jasper Hill/Chapoutier joint Agly Brothers Cotes du Roussillon project).

But there may be no more “worldly” winemaker than Nick Goldschmidt. Or “New-Worldly,” at least… New Zealand-born, Goldschmidt spent some time making wine in Australia, New Zealand, California and South America before a tenure of 13 years as winemaker for Sonoma’s Simi winery. From there, he became Executive VP and WInemaker for Allied Domecq, dealing with wines from Argentina, Spain, New Zealand and California. In 2006, Allied Domecq sold its U.S. table wine brands to Beam Wine Estates, and Goldschmidt became Beam’s winemaker, overseeing wineries like Wild Horse and Geyser Peak.

Early in 2008, Goldschmidt left Beam Wine Estates after it was acquired by Constellation Brands. He now splits his time between consulting with wine companies and producing and marketing his own brands — Goldschmidt Vineyards and Forefathers, both of which he and his wife Yolyn established some ten years ago. (Where he found the time, I couldn’t say.)

His wines come from vineyard spots around the world — from California to New Zealand, Australia and South America. I recently met up with Nick and tasted a few of his wines. Here are my notes:

Forefathers 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough($16). Nothing shy about this one, with its aromatic herbal notes playing against ripe, rich nectarine and ending with spritzy grapefruit. Loads of concentration and length on the finish. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 07/08) Locate this wine online or in your area.

Forefathers 2005 Shiraz McLaren Vale ($23). Supple black currant and blueberry fruit flavors pick up a light licorice note on the long, smooth, interesting finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Forefathers 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley ($40). Fleshy blackberry and cherry fruit is accented with generous, aromatic pepper and herbal notes that linger on the rich finish. A complex wine that should evolve nicely over the next few years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Goldschmidt Vineyard 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Vyborny Vineyard Single Vineyard Selection ($65). Pretty and smooth and elegant, offering concentrated red cherry and plum flavors layered with ginger, fig, chocolate, black tea, toasty vanilla and a whole host of other evolving delicious notes. Really appealing now, but should age beautifully for at least a decade. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Goldschmidt Vineyard 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Game Ranch Vineyard Single Vineyard Selection($65). Rich blackberry and black currant fruit is structured and full-bodied, with smoky spices and toasty oak influence emerging through the complex finish, which offers a bit of tannic grip. Tempting now but should probably age for a couple of years, then drink over the next decade. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Learn more at goldschmidtvineyards.com.

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