Originally published September 1, 2008

It’s only the first of September, which some may say is too soon to talk Port. And while a cold evening by the fire, after a proper winter feast, may be the iconic Port moment, I’d like to take this late-summer moment to extol the beauties of year-round Tawny.

First, a brief recitation of what makes a Tawny Port… Port can be divided into two groups: cask-aged and bottle-aged. Bottle-aged Ports (which include Vintage Ports) do receive some time in oak, but the vast majority of their aging takes place in bottle.

Tawny Ports fall into the cask-aged category, made by blending numerous lots of Port wines that have been aging in oak for a number of years. During this aging time, the wines lose their intense, inky purple color and take on more of a tawny color, as well as nuttiness, caramel character and other oak-influenced flavors. The final blend attempts to combine the best of the older, complex wines with the more fruity, bright flavors of the younger wines.

The bottles of Tawny are labeled according to the average age of the blended wine lots, thus “10-Year,” “20-Year,” etc., and are ready to drink upon release. The only exception here is a Colheita Tawny, which is produced from wines from a single harvest, and so have a “standard” vintage date on the label.

Now about their versatility… A couple of trips to Portugal showed me the extent to which Port can be a part of daily life. It is routinely ordered as an aperitif, slightly chilled and mixed with a splash of soda and a citrus twist. (Seriously, try this — it’s so refreshing and tasty!) And if you just need a taste of something sweet after a meal, you could hardly do better than a Tawny.

As for food pairings, think creamy and/or nutty. Creamy cheeses (triple cream Brie, Brillat Savarin, St. Andre, even fruited cream cheese tortes are heavenly with Tawny. Also creamy desserts — custard-based tarts, cheesecakes, creme brulee and the like. Or simply macerate some seasonal fresh fruit in a good glug of Tawny for a couple of hours before spooning over good quality vanilla ice cream. Peaches work beautifully here, by the way, as do supremes (no-skin, no-membrane segments) of a variety of citrus fruits. Nut brittles nut-based cookies are delicious with Tawnies, as are just about anything with a nutty topping or crust. Yup, the possibilities are endless!

Here are a few Tawny Ports I’ve tasted lately — enjoy!

Dow’s NV Tawny Port 10 Year Old ($33). Fresh and bright, with mouthwatering candied fig and fruitcake flavors, with touches of walnut and honey on the long finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Graham’s NV Tawny Port 10 Year Old ($35). Rich but fresh and fruity, with caramel, candied fruit and cake notes that linger on the generous finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Smith Woodhouse NV Tawny Port 10 Year Old ($31). Plenty of toast and nut accents to the aromatic, complex dark fruit flavors that stay rich from beginning to long finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Smith Woodhouse 1994 Tawny Port Colheita ($46). Pretty, with intense red fruit aromas and flavors, with fresh, mouthwatering balance and layers of gingerbread and caramel notes that linger on the complex finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Dow’s NV Tawny Port 20 Year Old ($56). Smooth, honeyed, nutty, with complex dried fruit flavors. Maintains a delicate raisin character throughout, picking up a toasty note on the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Graham’s NV Tawny Port 20 Year Old ($57). Prune, caramel, toasted almond and deep spice aromas and flavors linger on an intense, concentrated finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Try whipping up a batch of pecan-studded Mexican Wedding Cookies to go with your Tawny — they’re a snap to make and they keep well!