Originally published August 21, 2008

For years people have been predicting that Syrah is going to emerge as California’s new hot wine. Any minute now, it’s going to catch on with consumers…

Maybe. Personally, I haven’t loved so many California Syrahs. Dollar for dollar, the Washington versions I’ve tasted have offered more of the complexity and litheness that I’m looking for — and that I love in Northern Rhone Syrah.

Last night, I lined up four California Syrahs, with pricetags from $16 to $42, to go with a grilled veal chop supper. A fellow Cote-Rotie-lover and wine importer came over to lend her opinion.

We started with the Lockwood 2005 Syrah Monterey ($16), but found it rather medicinal and overly herbal. Next up was the Frei Brothers 2006 Syrah Russian River Valley ($24), a wine we both mentioned liking in the past. In this vintage, the alcohol seemed too forward, and the fruit just fell flat. The Robert Hall 2006 Syrah Paso Robles ($21) was a step in the right direction, with supple, concentrated blackberry and black cherry fruit and spicy oak. At $21, I’d like a little more complexity, but overall a totally drinkable wine.

Finally, we opened the Gainey 2005 Syrah Santa Rita Hills Limited Selection ($42). First of all, we both thought the wine just “smelled right.” With white pepper, licorice and leather aromas introducing concentrated blackberry and blueberry fruit flavors and a long, savory, cocoa-laced finish. Yes, it’s forty-two bucks, which is nothing to sneeze at. But we definitely felt like this was a superior wine — and we drank every last drop. Locate this wine online or in your area.