(Originally published August 2006)

Next up on our tour of Spanish wine is Rioja — probably the most familiar region to consumers. With a slew of wine – mostly red, but also white and rosé – coming out of the area, wine consumers latched on to prolific Rioja as the go-to Spanish wine region.

Located in northern/central Spain, Rioja takes its name from the river (rio) Oja, a relatively small river that winds its way through the region before joining the much more powerful Ebro river.

Rioja may have been the new “it” thing to wine consumers over the last decade or so, but it’s been around for an extraordinarily long time. As early as the first century, reports say, Roman invaders found local people treading grapes and fermenting the juice. The local wine quickly became a supply source for occupying Roman troops and the industry was further developed.

The wine industry in this part of Spain continued over the centuries – through the Moorish invaders and into the eventual formation of the country of Castile. By the sixteenth century, Rioja wine was being exported to France, Italy and northern Europe, even though winemaking techniques had hardly changed since Roman times.

But in the mid 1800s, Rioja took a giant leap forward with the introduction of Bordeaux winemaking techniques, including using well-coopered French oak casks for transporting wine and the introduction of French varietals into the vineyards.

Given its history, it’s no surprise the Rioja became the first Spanish wine to obtain denominacion de origen (DO) status. More than just an honorary title, this status meant even higher production regulations and authority to control winegrowing in the region.

Rioja winemaking ebbed and flowed through the wars of the early 1900s, along with the rest of the winemaking world. But by the 1960s and 1970s, Rioja began to emerge again as a reliable, affordable, high quality red wine source. Restaurateurs found it to be an excellent house red – full bodied, easy to drink, and easy to sell.

These days, consumers have a wide range of choices from Rioja. Modern winemakers have introduced stainless steel into the equation, producing fresh, crisp whites and juicy, young reds. Traditionalists still make wine with plenty of oak aging, with serious, cellar-worthy wines as the result.

The red wine grapes are Tempranillo and Garnacha, although some Cabernet Sauvignon (classified as an “experimental” variety in the region) is also used. For white wine, Viura, Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca are the main varieties, with Viura the most prevalent.

Bodegas Montecillo: a Rioja Favorite
Rioja is a large region, with hundreds of wineries producing loads of wines, much of which finds its ways to wine shelves around the world. With so many choices, it can be hard to know where to begin.

We recently enjoyed a wonderful luncheon with Bodegas Montecillo winemaker Maria Martinez-Sierra and were reminded of why Montecillo’s wines are a terrific Rioja choice – anytime, anywhere.

Bodegas Montecillo was founded in 1874 and still produces wines the way they did at the time, meaning patient aging, a steadfast dedication to indigenous Spanish varietals like Tempranillo, and the exclusive use of untoasted French oak. Montecillo produces a variety of aged red wines, plus an unoaked white.

Martinez has been a winemaker at Montecillo since 1976, is one of the original female winemakers in Spain, and is a truly charming, gracious ambassador for her wines. Lunch with her was a great experience – full of outstanding wines, delicious food, and her spirit of generous enthusiasm for the whole experience. Here are our notes on the wines:

Bodegas Montecillo 2004 Rioja White ($8). Dry and refreshing, the clean, lemon and mineral notes lacing juicy apple and pear. Ready to drink now.

Bodegas Montecillo 2000 Rioja Reserva ($18). Heady aromas of ripe fruit and florals introduce smooth, silky red plum and berry flavors, picking up a range of baking spices through the lush finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Bodegas Montecillo 1998 Rioja Gran Reserva ($24). Really lovely – and an outstanding value for the quality that it offers. With smooth, ripe black plum and bright berry flavors layered with sweet tobacco, earthy vanilla and a touch of earth. Long, lush, fruity finish. Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years. Even more impressive because of the wet vintage.

Bodegas Montecillo 1994 Rioja 130 Aniversario Edición Limitada Gran Reserva ($50). Aging quite gracefully, with a deep, elegant balance between ripe red cherry and plum fruit, cedar, clove and smoke aromas and flavors. Smooth, long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Bodegas Montecillo 1991 Rioja Gran Reserva Selección Especial ($65). Smoky cinnamon aromas introduce cherry, blueberry and raisin flavors, with a silky, spicy finish. Excellent balance and structure. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Bodegas Montecillo 1982 Rioja Gran Reserva Selección Especial ($75). Definitely tastes aged – probably at the end of its life – but still offers some raisin and dried red berry flavors along with dried herbs and spicy cedar. Ready to drink now.

Bodegas Montecillo is part of the Osborne group – learn more at www.osborne.es.