(Originally published April 2005)

In the second installment of this new feature, we drop in on exciting wine regions around the world and bring you the latest wine reviews and other happenings. Last time we were in Australia’s Yarra Valley — now we’re moving to the McLaren Vale!

The McLaren Vale wine region is about a 45 minute drive south of Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, and was one of the first areas to be settled in this part of the country.

McLaren is a predominantly red wine area, with astonishing bush vine Shiraz vineyards and a general winemaking style quite similar to the famous Barossa reds. It is an easy area to visit, with plenty of cellar door tasting rooms and friendly staff members happy to pour tastes of their latest releases.

Grenache is definitely the collective teachers’ pet these days in McLaren, with everyone doing their own thing to make their varietal Grenache wines distinctive (like Wirra Wirra’s dry ice cold soak). Grenache is historically most often used as a blending grape, both in Australia and, most famously, in the Southern Rhone Valley. As a stand alone varietal wine, it is often juicy and plummy — a great match for the cliched shrimp (or lamb or mixed grill) on the barbie.

Whatever else you do, be sure to plan at least one meal at the Star of Greece Cafe at Port Willunga, where spectacular ocean views set the scene for an array of scrumptious dishes like Sage Gnocchi with Rabbit and Vegetable Ragout, Porcini Crusted Veal Sweetbreads, and outstanding Fish & Chips.

Also plan on at least one meal at Salopian Inn (tel: 08-8323-8769), where the local goat cheese, fennel, avocado and arugula salad is addictively good, along with the potatoes roasted in duck fat and a beautiful pork cutlet with caramelized apple and walnuts.

Of the many wines we tasted, here are the ones that really stood out, along with a few notes about the wineries. (Please note: Wine prices are approximations in some cases and may vary within the U.S.)

Chateau Reynella
Founded in 1838, Reynella’s “Old Cave” is the oldest continuously operated underground wine cellar in Australia.

Chateau Reynella 2002 Shiraz McLaren Vale Basket Pressed ($28). Rich, spicy nose introduces pretty, supple black plum and currant fruit, with a healthy peppery kick throughout. Ripe without being jammy. Quite appealing. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Coriole
Coriole 2002 Lalla Rookh Old Vines McLaren Vale ($30). Interesting bouquet of spicy, slightly funky blackberry and floral aromas lead to a rich, ripe wine that is nonetheless balanced and utterly drinkable, with concentrated blackberry and cherry fruit layered with anise and clove and zingy acidity. A blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

d’Arenberg
With a charming, historic tasting room and delicious restaurant (d’Arry’s Verandah) – d’Arenberg is a must on any McLaren itinerary.

d’Arenberg 2003 The Stump Jump Red McLaren Vale ($10). Clean, pure fruit flavors and aromas feature bright, sweet strawberry and raspberry, with a hit of white pepper on the pretty finish. Easy to drink — great value. A blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre. Ready to drink now.

d’Arenberg 2003 Chardonnay McLaren Vale The Olive Grove ($15). Refreshing and juicy, featuring ripe pineapple and apple fruit layered with cream and a subtle earthy note. Ready to drink now.

d’Arenberg 2002 d’Arry’s Original McLaren Vale ($18). Juicy and plummy, with excellent concentration, nice tannic structure and an interesting peppery note that lingers through the finish. A blend of Shiraz and Grenache. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

d’Arenberg 2002 The Ironstone Pressings McLaren Vale ($65). Earthy blackberry and spice aromas introduce waves of licorice, white pepper, concentrated red currant and blackberry fruit. Ripe fruit is supported by firm tannic structure. Finishes with a wave of chocolate. Very nice. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

d’Arenberg 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale The Coppermine Road ($65). Excellent, with beautiful structure supporting concentrated black currant and berry flavors, picking up eucalyptus and sweet spices on the long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years.

d’Arenberg 2001 Grenache McLaren Vale The Custodian ($19). Beautifully balanced, with deep blackberry and cherry flavors laced with warn spices and toasty oak. Finishes long and supple. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years.

Fox Creek
Fox Creek 2002 Shiraz-Grenache McLaren Vale ($17). Very appealing, with warm spices that lace red currant and berry fruit, finishing with a delicious chocolate and anise burst of flavor. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Gemtree
Gemtree 2003 Tatty Road McLaren Vale 2001 ($22). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Petite Verdot (25%) and Merlot, this is a well-built wine offering concentrated red cherry and berry fruit with nicely integrated toasty oak, spice and sage accents. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Oliver’s Taranga
Oliver’s Taranga 2002 Corrina’s McLaren Vale ($45). Great structure — this age-worthy wine offers rich blackberry and currant fruit laced with spicy oak and a touch of funky game character. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Ready to drink now and over the next seven or eight years.

Penny’s Hill
Penny’s Hill 2001 Chardonnay McLaren Vale 2002 ($17). Slight pine aroma mingles with fresh citrus and stone fruit aromas and flavors — nicely balanced between creamy and fresh characteristics. Long finish is peachy and lively. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Pirramimma
The Aboriginal phrase meaning “the moon and the stars,” Pirramimma was founded in 1892 by Alexander Campbell Johnston and has been owend and operated by the Johnston family ever since.

Pirramimma 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale ($23). Nice Cab at a good price from 35-year-old vines, offering big, concentrated red cherry and berry flavors accented with generous spicy oak and a touch of earth. Long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Rosemount
From their first vintage in 1974, Rosemount has produced a full-flavoured, easy drinking wine style that has become a hallmark for all of Australia. With a wide range of wines to choose from, the G-S-M is a classic!

Rosemount 2001 Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre McLaren Vale-Barossa Valley-Langhorne Creek GSM ($30). Beautifully aromatic, with waves of ripe berry, floral and spice notes and just a touch of sweet vanilla. Plummy and supple, with ripe fruit accented with loads of spice and bourbony oak in the background. A compelling wine that’s hard to put down. Very good now and over the next four or five years.

Simon Hackett
Simon Hackett 2004 Chardonnay Barossa Valley Brightview ($18). Exhibits a pretty freshness on nose and palate, including juicy pear and citrus flavors. Gets creamy and rich through the finish, picking up a touch of spice. Ready to drink now.

Tintara
Founded in the mid-1800s by one of the true pioneers in Australian winemaking and McLaren Vale particularly, Thomas Hardy, Tintara is still a family winery and producing some of the best wines we tasted on our trip. The canopy of a magnificent 150-year-old Moreton Bay Fig Tree outside the tasting room just begs to be lingered under — don’t miss it!

Tintara 2002 Shiraz McLaren Vale ($18). Delicious, with lip-smacking blueberry, black currant and spice flavors that are rich and bright. Appealing white pepper kick on lengthy finish; nicely integrated oak. Great value. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Tintara 2002 Grenache McLaren Vale Reserve ($45). Just a beautiful wine, with subtle spicy French oak supporting opulent, elegant red plum and berry fruit laced with baking spices and vanilla. Ripe, lingering finish. Very good now and over the next six or seven years.

Tintara 2002 Shiraz McLaren Vale Reserve ($45). Loads of ripe blueberry and currant fruit are layered with generous spices — exotic and aromatic — ending with a white pepper accent. Aromatic, rich and delicious. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Wirra Wirra
Wirra Wirra 2003 Riesling South Australia Hand Picked ($16). Crisp and delicious, with perfumed peach and apple fruit and an appealing mineral structure. Lovely lingering finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Wirra Wirra 2002 Grenache McLaren Vale ($N/A). Richly colored and aromatic, with lush red berry and plum fruit laced with warm spices, a touch of earth, and nicely integrated toasty oak. Appealing and complex, with a rich finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Wirra Wirra 2002 Church Block McLaren Vale ($16). Always a fun, tasty wine, this vintage offers firm blackberry and plum fruit layered with smoky oak and smooth, warm spices. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Woodstock
Woodstock 2004 Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc McLaren Vale ($13). Tangy, almost tart, with concentrated passionfruit and citrus flavors nicely accented with herbal notes. Dry and crisp and great for a hot day. Ready to drink now.

Yangarra Estate
Sporting some of the oldest Grenache vines in the region (which is really saying something!), Yangarra Estate’s vines date from 1946.

Yangarra Estate 2002 Grenache McLaren Vale Old Vine ($25). A “wow” wine — huge and still just a baby, with concentrated blackberry and plum fruit layered with briar and an array of warm spices. Finish lingers impressively. Tempting now and over the next seven or eight years.

Yangarra Estate 2002 Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvèdre McLaren Vale ($25). Appealing bacon fat aroma mingles with ripe red plum and blueberry aromas and flavors, along with a burst of black pepper spice on generous finish. Very, very good. Ready to drink now and over the next seven or eight years.

Yangarra Estate 2002 Shiraz McLaren Vale ($25). Loved this wine, with its game and black pepper laced black currant fruit. Beautifully balanced, with a warm, lingering finish. Delicious now and over the next five or six years.