(Originally published April 2006)

The first stop on our tour of Spanish wine is the lush, cool, rainy, coastal Galicia in northwest Spain. And actually, this part of the country is less “Spain-like” than any other part of Spain. Quite close to Portugal, and separated from its nearest Spanish neighbor city by mountains, Galicia’s pre-Christian Celctic history resonates throughout the region – from its gaita (Galician bagpipes) to the range of Atlantic seafood specialties.

There are five DO (Denominacion de Origen) zones here – Rias Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribiera Sacra, Valdeorras and Monterrei. And the best wines of the region are the white wines, made from the Albariño and Godello grapes.

Rias Baixas (pronounced REE-ahs BUY-shuss) and its crisp, aromatic, refreshing Albariños are easily the best known and most widely available wines from the entire region – and indeed may be the best white wines in Spain (though the winemakers in Rueda may have something to say about that).

The vast majority of Rias Baixas Albariño is stainless-steel fermented, with little or no oak involved. It is best enjoyed young and chilled, preferably alongside a feast of local seafood.

As for price points, they tend to hover in the $15-$22 range, rarely dropping much below this due to the relatively small estates and labor-intensive harvesting from challenging slopes.

These are delicious wines for spring and summer – try picking up a one of these bottles instead of your usual Sauvignon Blanc. We’re betting you’ll like it!

2004 was an unusually ripe vintage in Rias Baixas, with most wines taking on tropical flavors and showing quite well now. We’ve tasted wines from several notable adegas (the local word for bodega) – here are our notes:

Adegas Morgadio 2004 Albariño Rias Baixas ($20). Tropical, ripe, mouthwatering aromas and flavors are balanced with juicy citrus and delicate dried herbal notes. Long, focused finish. Ready to drink now.

Adegas Valmiñor 2004 Albariño Rias Baixas ($15). Refreshing and juicy, with tropical fruit aromas and flavors layered with delicate florals and fresh herbs. Nicely balanced, with a long, fresh finish. Ready to drink now.

Bodegas Marqués de Vizhoja 2004 Albariño Rias Baixas Torre la Moreira ($15). Complex floral, wet straw and mineral aromas mingle with melon, pear and peach notes that build to a juicy finish. Very nice. Ready to drink now.

Bodegas Martinez Serantes 2004 Albariño Rias Baixas Dona Rosa ($16). Loads of ripe peach, orange blossom and melon aromas and flavors stay juicy and focused through the ripe finish. A mineral note adds balance. Ready to drink now.

Lusco do Miño 2004 Albariño Rias Baixas Lusco ($23). Ripe, tropical melon and peach aromas and flavors dominate, with touches of citrus and cream that linger on the mouthcoating finish. Ready to drink now.

Martin Codax 2004 Albarino Rias Baixas ($16). Named after the man who first wrote music on paper, this is one of the best Albariños makers around. The 2004 vintage offers ripe, racy fruit flavors that show off an unusually warm vintage, with vibrant citrus and quince notes amping up the juicy peach flavors. Delicious. Ready to drink now and over the next year or two. (Weekend Wine 09/05)

To learn more about Rias Baixas and its wines, visit www.riasbaixaswines.com.