(Originally published December 2006)

A recent visit to Portugal’s Douro region was a fabulous introduction to the beautiful landscape, hospitable locals and up-and-coming wines of the area.

Long known for being the home to most of Portugal’s port production, the Douro Valley’s dramatic mountainside terraced vineyards are becoming increasingly significant for bold red table wines. The astonishingly steep, challenging vineyards grow concentrated wines, with depth and tannin structure that are attracting more and more wine lovers.

Located upriver from Porto, in northwestern Portugal, the Douro is an area of extremes. From the extreme inclination of the vineyards, to the hot and dry summers and freezing winters, not to mention the hard schist that requires grapevine roots to push down as much as 65 feet through fissures in the schist to find water – the Douro’s wines are truly “wines born of adversity.”

Although there is certainly an ever-increasing selection of Portuguese reds out there, along with an increasing array of winemaking styles – they generally offer concentrated fruit, but not an overripe or jammy character, and good value. The grapes used are mostly indigenous to the region, like Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo) and Tinta Barroca.

A highlight of the visit was the opportunity to attend the 2006 “Douro Boys” tasting – a group of producers who get together to offer their latest vintage of table wines and ports to the wine industry and press. Any one of the wines we tasted would have been impressive on its own. All of them together were a real lesson in just how far the Douro’s red wines have come!

Here are our favorites from the tasting:

Niepoort 2004 Douro Charme ($100). A lovely, feminine red – less muscular than most at the tasting. With pretty floral notes accenting red cherry, berry, mineral and warm spices – all mingling on a creamy, plush finish. Should age beautifully for 10+ years.

Niepoort 2004 Douro Redoma Red ($55). Great balance here, with integrated red fruit, full-bodied, earthy spices, dark chocolate and a mouthwatering finish. Very, very good. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Quinta do Crasto 2004 Touriga Nacional Douro ($75). My favorite from the whole tasting, this is just a beautiful wine. Carnation aromas accent concentrated black currant and plum flavors, with black pepper, dark chocolate and smooth, creamy oak emerging on the generous, plush finish. Tempting now and over the next six or seven years.

Quinta do Crasto 2004 Douro Vinha da Ponte ($125). Big and bold and in your face, with plenty of full-bodied black currant and dried black cherry flavors and aromas, layered with peppery, smoky oak and creamy vanilla. Best after 2007.

Quinta do Crasto 2004 Douro Reserva ($35). A delicious value, with rich blackberry and cherry flavors laced with loads of spices and creamy mocha that emerges on the long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Quinta do Vale Meão 2004 Douro ($60). Fantastic nose here, with rich blackberry and beefy black currant aromas and flavors laced with loads of vanillin oak and pretty spices. Just a baby at this point, it should continue to age nicely for at least six or seven years. Mostly Touriga Nacional (about 60%), plus Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca.

Quinta do Vale Meão Meandro Douro ($20). A heck of a deal – I’d drink this everyday! With a smooth blend of aromatic black plum and berry flavors, with an appealing peppery kick on the long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Quinta Vale D. Maria 2004 Curriculum Vitae ($95). Appealing dusty, smoky, bacony nose introduces powerful, concentrated, delicious black fruit flavors, anise and baking spices, excellent structure and a long, complex finish. Tightly wound, with excellent aging potential – eight to ten years.

Quinta Vale D. Maria 2004 Douro ($48). Ripe fruit aromas and flavors include blackberry and cherry, picking up dried herb notes through the dusty finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Quinta do Vallado 2004 Douro Reserva ($45). Sweet vanilla and coconut-y oak accent bright red fruit flavors, with a kick of spice on the focused finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

And here are a few more Douro reds we’ve enjoyed lately:

Prats & Symington 2004 Douro Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($24). Lots of French oak character here, with an array of baking spices, heady vanilla, and sweet pipe tobacco accenting lush cherry and plum flavors. Finishes with creamy mocha. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine 07/06)

Quinta de Roriz 2004 Douro Prazo ($15). Pretty red berry and strawberry flavors mingle with tobacco, mineral, and warm spices. Long, focused finish keeps you coming back for more. The favorite of the tasting — at any price! Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. (Weekend Wine 07/06)

Symington Family Estates 2004 Douro Vale do Bomfim Reserva ($13). Easy to fall for, with its plummy depth and richness, with black pepper and cream on the bright, juicy finish. A really great value and so easy to pair with food. Ready to drink now and over the next three years. (Weekend Wine 07/06)