(Originally published August 2006)

In March 2006, the California wine industry suffered a great loss when Rodney Strong passed away in Healdsburg at the age of 78.

Strong was one of the early proponents of Sonoma County, enthusiastically and gracefully extolling its virtues at a time when the Napa Valley was considered the only game in town. He released the first Sonoma County vineyard-designated wine with his Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon.

But Sonoma wine was not Strong’s first love. Born in 1927, Strong was a serious dancer by the age of 15 and would go on to study with Martha Graham and George Ballanchine at the American School of Ballet. His career as a dancer was included 4 years in Paris, including dancing lead at the Lido in its early years. It was during his years in Paris that he became captivated with fine French wines.

In 1959, Strong détournéd into his second career by launching Tiburon Vintners, famously saying “I knew I couldn’t be an old dancer, but I could be an old winemaker.” He started by blending and bottling wines he had purchased, but over the next decade, he bought and planted extensive vineyard acreage across Sonoma County, which was mostly dairy country in those days. Strong became a winemaker over the years and by 1980 was breaking ground for a new winery in Healdsburg.

Strong had also hired Rick Sayre to take the winemaking reigns. Sayre had cut his winemaking teeth at Simi, working alongside some of the great names in California winemaking – Robert Stemmler, Mary Ann Graf and Andre Tchelistcheff.

Around this same time, Tom Klein, fresh out of Stanford MBA school, went to work for an international management-consulting firm. One of his early projects was to evaluate the potential of Rodney Strong winery. Klein met Strong and Sayre – he found that he ver much liked the wines and the company!

Shortly thereafter, according to the Rodney Strong website, Klein had an epiphany that prompted him to get into the wine business – combining his love for agriculture (but not the family bean business!), his MBA and his personal love for wine. In 1989, the Klein family purchased Rodney Strong Vineyards, with Strong staying on as consultant, spokesman and advisor for many years.

Since the purchase, the Klein family has purchased additional vineyards and steadily improved the winery facility, with new tanks and presses, custom barrel servicing equipment, rotary fermenters, a new crush pad, and more. Sales have grown from 69,000 cases in 1989 to nearly half a million by the end of the decade.

For our part, we’ve always been a fan of the Rodney Strong Chardonnay – balanced, lively and lovely. We recently had a chance to taste through a broad range of current releases. Here are our notes:

Rodney Strong 2004 Chardonnay Sonoma County ($15). Nice mouthfeel, features juicy citrus and crisp apple up front, evolving to toasty, creamy vanilla on the end along with a touch of smoke. Ready to drink now. (Bargain Wine 04/06)

Rodney Strong 2004 Chardonnay Chalk Hill Sonoma County ($19). Really liked this wine – and a great deal at this price. With its juicy pear, pretty citrus, creamy texture, mineral freshness, toasty oak and outstanding focus and length, this wine is a winner. Ready to drink now.

Rodney Strong 2004 Merlot Sonoma County ($19). Concentrated, with intense aromas and bold flavors that include red currant, cherry, mint, spicy vanilla and toasty oak. With a generous finish. Nothing wimpy about this Merlot! Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Rodney Strong 2003 Zinfandel Sonoma County Knotty Vines Estate Vineyards ($19). Effusive, aromatic red cherry, strawberry and spices swirl around the palate and linger on the finish, picking up a touch of briar along the way. Easy to like. Ready to drink now.

Rodney Strong 2004 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Sonoma County ($19). Moderate, slightly earthy bouquet introduces black cherry and plum flavors with subtle toasty oak. Offers an evolving finish that eventually kicks in with juicy, mouthwatering fruit. Ready to drink now.

Rodney Strong 2003 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Jane’s Vineyard Reserve ($35). Smooth red berry and plum flavors are laced with aromatic, sweet earth, mushroom, lush spices and toasty oak – all coming together on a long, ripe finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Rodney Strong 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County ($19). Iodine on the nose and a little green on the palate, with eucalyptus accents to red cherry and plum flavors.

Rodney Strong 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Alden Vineyards ($30). Lush and pretty, with ripe blackberry and cherry flavors, tobacco, dark chocolate and dusty tannins that fold into a long voluptuous finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Rodney Strong 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Alexander’s Crown ($30). Minty aromas and flavors accent blackberry and black cherry fruit, with smoke and a bit of leather along with toasty oak accents. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Rodney Strong 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Coast Reserve ($40). Very nice, integrated and intense, with blackberry and plum fruit laced with smoke and hints of eucalyptus and tarry oak emerging on the long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years.

Rodney Strong 2001 Red Meritage Alexander Valley Symmetry ($55). Richly aromatic, with lush, complex layers of flavors, including blackberry, plum, tar, licorice, espresso and baking spices that come together on a smooth, opulent finish. Delicious now and over the next five or six years.

Learn more about Rodney Strong at www.rodneystrong.com.