(Originally published April 2006)

Over the hundreds of years of winemaking, there have been hundreds of winemakers who make good wines. But there have only been a few who have truly changed the face of winemaking – whether by innovative techniques, commitment to excellence, identification of the benefits of specific clones in specific places, or just plain bucking the system.

Roberto Anselmi is such a winemaker – and he fits all of those categories.

Since taking over management of his family’s winery in the Soave district of northeast Italy’s Veneto region two decades ago, Anselmi has been committed to tapping the unrealized potential of the wines of the region.

To realize his dream, Anselmi had to part ways with the traditions – and even the regulations – of the Soave district. The result has been a new generation of wines that have nearly single-handedly elevated the Veneto’s reputation in the wine world.

By drastically limiting yields and insisting on only the finest fruit, Anselmi began to produce wines that offered a concentration and richness that were unmatched in Soave, including single-vineyard wines that highlighted the character of specific plots in the region.

In 2000, after twenty years of making Soave the best it could be, Anselmi looked to expand his vision. By foregoing the use of the “Soave DOC,” Anselmi also broke free of its confines. His adoption of the “Veneto IGT” (a lower status in Italy’s wine world) meant that he could exclusively control the winery’s practices and decisions, without having to exactly fit the mold of a Soave wine.

We recently tasted several of Anselmi’s recent releases. Without exception, they are fresh and full of flavor, harmonious, and food-friendly. Here are our notes:

Anslemi 2004 Veneto San Vincenzo ($12). Loved the citrus up front, with lush tropical and pear flavors that smooth out through the slightly nutty finish. Ready to drink now.

Anslemi 2002 Veneto Capitel Croce ($19). As bright and mouthwatering as a perfectly ripe nectarine, with layers of juicy apple, wildflowers, tangerine and cream. Full-bodied and focused. Ready to drink now.

Anselmi 2004 Veneto Capitel Foscarino ($19). Lovely integration here, with no one aroma or flavor dominating. A melange of fresh pear, peach, citrus, honeycomb and cream that linger on a complex finish. Ready to drink now.

Anselmi 2003 Veneto I Capitelli ($30, 375 ml). Luscious apricot, mandarin, honey and cream are sweet, ripe and full-bodied in this dessert wine, with a long, complex, lingering finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.