(Originally published June 2004)

Beaujolais may be the most accessible and flexible French red wine available… it may also be the most widely misunderstood. Don’t make the mistake of associating all Beaujolais with that November fruit punch frenzy that is Beaujolais Nouveau – most of the wine from Beaujolais is darker and richer and has more body, but still offers the exuberant, pretty fruitiness on a light- to medium-bodied frame. Made from Gamay grapes, these wines are happy wines – eminently gulpable, perfect with just about any food (including many fish dishes), great for picnics and rustic foods. We love to put a light chill on a bottle of Beaujolais (say, 30 minutes in the fridge before opening) and serve it with a casual meal of roasted chicken, goat cheeses, a green salad and some crusty bread.

Beaujolais is a region, just north of Lyons, and you’ll usually see its name on the label. You may also see Beaujolais-Villages, which signifies that the wine comes from vineyards in specific villages that are designated as higher quality. At the top of the Beaujolais quality pyramid are ten villages are collectively referred to as Cru Beaujolais, though you won’t actually see the word Beaujolais anywhere. Just the name of the village. The ten Cru Beaujolais are:

Brouilly
Côtes de Brouilly
Chenas
Chiroubles
Fleurie
Juliénas
Morgon
Moulin-à-Vent
Regnié
Saint-Amour

Of the ten, Chènas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent tend to be the most rich and deep, with more tannic structure and possibly earthy notes along with the riper fruit profile. These three also tend to age better and longer, which in the case of Beaujolais typically means three to four years. As a general rule, though, Beaujolais (including the Cru Beaujolais) is perfect for drinking within a year or two of its vintage date.

And this is one French wine purchase decision that is refreshingly simple – Duboeuf, Duboeuf, Duboeuf. Very high standards and plenty of choices. Look for the 2002 vintage for a hard-to-go-wrong choice. Here are a few we’ve tasted lately:

Georges Duboeuf 2002 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents ($14). Deeper and richer than your everyday Fleurie, with some tannic grip on the black cherry and plum fruit. Warm spices evolve on the appealing finish. Ready to drink now.

Georges Duboeuf 2002 Moulin-à-Vent Domaine de la Tour du Bief ($14). Seductively rich and complex, with mushroom laced red fruit, heady spices, earth and roasted coffee notes. Deeply scented, with a concentrated, lingering finish. Fabulous at twice the price. Ready to drink now.

Georges Duboeuf 2002 St.-Amour Domaine des Sablons ($14). Jammy black cherry and berry fruit is layered with dark chocolate, espresso and spices. Packs a powerful flavor punch, with a focused finish. Ready to drink now.

Georges Duboeuf 2002 Brouilly Domaine de Combillaty ($12). Focused blackberry and black cherry fruit is juicy and expressive, picking up warm spices and a touch of mint on the finish. Quite appealing. Ready to drink now.

Georges Duboeuf 2002 Chiroubles Domaine Desmures ($12). Pretty red berry and floral aromas and flavors, with appealing roundness and mouthfeel. Smooth and easy to like. Ready to drink now.

Georges Duboeuf 2002 Côte de Brouilly Flower Label ($12). Juicy blackberry and plum fruit with rose petal, moderate spice and mocha. Jammy finish. Ready to drink now.

Georges Duboeuf 2002 Fleurie Flower Label ($12). Admirable structure at a heck of a price, offering balanced layers of jammy red berry, violet, and briar, picking up a lush chocolate note on the smooth finish.

Georges Duboeuf 2002 Régnié Flower Label ($10). Velvety smooth red raspberry, strawberry and red cherry fruit flavors and aromas, laced with violet and touches of black pepper and bittersweet chocolate. Lovely overall package lingers beautifully. Ready to drink now.