(Originally published June 2005)

Riesling is still the much-misunderstood Sommelier’s favorite on any wine list. Too often thought of as the overly sweet, cheap German wine in a blue bottle, Riesling is actually one of the most delicious white wines… ever! Think of it this way — you know the difference between a fresh, sweet peach and canned peach syrup, right? Riesling is the fresh peach. And Riesling is perfect for the tropical flavors of summer. Plus, because of the rampant misconceptions, there are some great deals to be had.

A great way to appreciate the beautiful tastes of Riesling is to have a Riesling & Curry tasting. Your favorite takeout Thai curry would be a great choice – the coconut milk and tropical flavors involved here are a wonderful summer choice and pair beautifully with Riesling. Or you could go Indian or Chinese and still have a great match.

If you’re inclined to get in the kitchen yourself, check out our recipe for Curried Shrimp Turnovers! Or pull out your favorite curry recipe – can be spicy or mild, include yogurt or coconut milk (or not!) – curry is the key here.

Then chill your Rieslings and start tasting. It may take you a few sips to adjust to the pure fruit flavors of these wines – typically you will not get all the oak or creamy, buttery flavors that you often get in Chardonnay, and sometimes get even in Sauvignon Blanc. Soon, though, the refreshing “clean” character of the wines will take over. You’ll stop worrying about whether they taste sweet or not – remember that difference between a fresh peach and canned peach syrup? You’ll just appreciate the enchanting balance between elegance and exuberance that these wines offer. Here are a few we’ve tasted lately:

Germany:
S.A. Prum 2003 Riesling Kabinett Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Blue Slate ($16). Dry, mineral, tart character on finish reigns in ripe, lush tangerine, peach and apricot fruit. Really good with Indian curry. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

S.A. Prum 2003 Riesling Spatlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Graacher Himmelreich ($26). A great example of an off-dry Riesling with loads of bright acidity and fruity freshness to keep things balanced. Honeysuckle, apricot, nectarine, juicy citrus — all here in marvelous proportion. Lush, focused finish. Ready to drink now and over the next ten years.

Blue Fish 2004 Riesling Pfalz ($10). All juicy apple and lemon zest, this Riesling offers the bright, crisp side of Riesling at an everyday price. Ready to drink now.

Australia:
Grant Burge 2002 Riesling Eden Valley Thorn ($19). Mouthwatering aromas and flavors include citrus and apricot, with just a touch of mineral, and stay focused and juicy through the long finish. Very good now and over the next six or seven years.

Jim Barry 2004 Riesling Clare Valley The Lodge Hill ($15). Delicate and pretty, with a pronounced mineral note supporting honeysuckle, nectarine and pear flavors. Stays focused through the lingering finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Leasingham 2004 Riesling Clare Valley Bin 7 ($15). Delicious stuff, with a nice balance of zesty citrus and crisp apple against lush honeysuckle and peach. All comes together and lingers nicely on the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years.

Wolf Blass 2004 Riesling Eden Valley/Clare Valley Gold Label ($14). Peachy and fine citrus aromas introduce clean, focused citrus, floral and peach flavors that stay lively and pretty through the finish. Dry and refreshing. Lovely balance. Excellent value! Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. (Weekend Wine 04/05)

New Zealand:
Spy Valley 2004 Riesling Marlborough ($14). Fruit forward and juicy, offering racy tropical flavors against crisp acidity and voluptuous fig notes. Nothing shy here, but with very good structure and length. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Stoneleigh 2003 Riesling Marlborough ($16). Graceful and elegant, with layers of honeysuckle, pear, resin, delicate citrus, mineral, and white peach aromas and flavors. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years.

California:
Chateau St. Jean 2004 Johannisberg Riesling Sonoma County ($15). Lush peach, melon and apricot fruit star in this off-dry style, offset with touches of juicy citrus and mineral notes. Really quite appealing – particularly with Indian curries.