(Originally published December 2006)

Petite Sirah is especially appealing this time of year. Its inky dark color, full-bodied range of ripe flavors and considerable tannic structure pairs best with simply prepared grilled meats and, especially, game. Think venison stew. Wild boar chops. Grilled squab and quail. There’s something about smoky foods that beautifully enhance these jammy, spicy, voluptuous wines.

Here’s a deliciously easy recipe to try:
Venison Oven Stew with Parsley and Bacon
Serves 6 (leftovers make a delicious spin on Sloppy Joes!)

4 bacon slices, chopped
1 2½ pound venison roast (can substitute beef chuck roast), cut into 1½-inch cubes
3 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large red onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, pressed
1 tablespoon dried parsley
1 teaspoons allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1½ cups low-sodium chicken broth, beef or veal stock
1/2 cup dry red wine
kosher salt to taste
Chopped fresh flat leaf parsley leaves

Preheat oven to 325°F.

In a large, ovenproof dutch oven, cook bacon over medium heat until fat has rendered and bacon is crisp. With a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towels to drain. Reserve pot with drippings.

Sprinkle venison cubes with salt and pepper. Dust with flour; toss to coat. Working in about 3 batches, cook venison in bacon drippings over medium-high heat until browned, about 4 minutes per batch, transferring to a plate or bowl as each batch is browned.

Add oil, onion, and garlic to pot. Sauté over medium heat until beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Return reserved venison with any accumulated juices to pot. Add dried parsley, allspice and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add broth or stock and bring to simmer. Cover and transfer to oven; cook 45 minutes.

Remove pot from oven; add wine, return to oven, and cook uncovered until sauce thickens slightly, about 40 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped parsley and reserved bacon.

And here are a few Petite Sirahs we’ve particularly enjoyed lately:

Stags’ Leap Winery 2003 Petite Syrah Napa Valley ($38). Delish! Smooth black cherry and blackberry flavors are laced with chocolate, blueberry pie, nutmeg and a touch of sweet earth. With a long, lipsmacking finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years.

David Bruce 2004 Petite Syrah Central Coast ($20). Ripe raspberry and currant flavors are laced with coffee, dried herbs and toasty vanilla. Ready to drink now.

David Bruce 2003 Petite Syrah Paso Robles Shell Creek Vineyard ($30). Black cherry and berry flavors pick up mocha, toasty oak and tobacco notes on the long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Rosenblum 2004 Petite Sirah San Francisco Bay Heritage Clones ($20). A great value, with smooth, enchanting blackberry and blueberry fruit layered with sweet vanilla, ginger, milk chocolate and dash of peppery kick on the supple finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.