(Originally published April 2006)

What is that Longfellow quote that people use so often about children? “When she was good, she was very good indeed, but when she was bad she was horrid.” That, to me, seems to apply perfectly to Merlot.

When it’s good, it is smooth and rich and lovely. But when it’s bad, it’s cough syrup.

And although it’s probably true that the more expensive the Merlot, the better your chances that it will be very good – it’s not an absolute. There are very good bottles, indeed, at every price point. The trick is finding them!

The other interesting thing about sampling Merlot at different price ranges is the different intensity levels you will find. Good, inexpensive Merlot can reflect many of the same smooth berry and toast flavors that the pricier bottles offer, but with less richness and complexity.

Here is a Merlot tasting feast – in three courses – that starts with a light, simple Merlot paired with an introductory cheese course, then a medium-bodied one paired with a savory, Southwestern black bean terrine with goat cheese. Finally an elegant, complex Merlot paired with succulent veal short ribs. Enjoy!

1st course: Merlot $12 and under with Baked Brie
What you’re wanting here is light, smooth red berry fruit, hopefully with some toasty oak, vanilla, spice or mocha accents. Paired with a rich baked brie – it’s a terrific way to kick off the evening and can be enjoyed at the table or as a stand-up appetizer.

Put together your own favorite baked brie concoction! Check out some of our recipes and tips (the pesto and pinenut version works particularly well here), or order one of the delicious (trust us – our freezer is stocked with these babies!) Carmelized Onion Brie en Croutes from Appetizerstogo.com!

Wines:
Beaulieu Vineyard 2003 Merlot California Coastal Estates ($11). Appealingly tart red berry flavors and aromas are balanced by the smooth mouthfeel and tannins, picking up cinnamon, plum and mocha through the finish. Ready to drink now. (Winery Spotlight 02/06)

Bertani 2003 Merlot Veneto Arminio ($12). Aromas and flavors of crushed red berry are fresh and appealing, if not overly complex. Dashes of spice on the short finish. Ready to drink now.

Cellar No. 8 2003 Merlot California ($10). Easy to like, with smooth red berry and cherry fruit, finishing with mouthwatering toasty vanilla and cream.

Meridian 2002 Merlot California ($10).Smooth blackberry and milk chocolate flavors are accented with spicy cola and fresh herbs. Enjoy now!

Two Tone Farm 2003 Merlot California ($10). Nice, especially for the price, with concentrated black cherry, earthy cinnamon, anise and black pepper notes that stay focused through the finish. Easy to like. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

2nd course: Merlot $20 and under with Southwestern Black Bean Terrine
This dish is full of bold flavors – just be sure to make it a day ahead so the terrine has time to “set.” Cut in small slices for a starter course, or go with thicker slices alongside a green salad for a delicious weeknight meal! Serves 8-10 as a starter, 5-6 as a main course.

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ teaspoon cumin
¼ teaspoon coriander
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon cracked black pepper
32 ounces canned black beans, rinsed
¾ lb. Chorizo sausage, casing removed
1 large log fresh goat cheese (or two small logs)
avocado slices, fresh cilantro sprigs, and lime wedges for garnish

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in skillet. Saute onion, garlic, cumin, coriander, salt and pepper until onion is soft and translucent. In a separate skillet, saute chorizo until cooked.

When onion is soft, add black beans and continue cooking until all liquid has evaporated.

Combine black bean mixture with cooked chorizo in a large bowl; mix well. Transfer to refrigerator until thoroughly cooled.

Place half the mixture in the bowl of a food processor and process until nearly smooth. Scrape processed mixture back into the bowl with whole beans and stir to mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Line a loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving long ends that can be folded over the top once the loaf pan is filled. Spoon in half the black bean mixture, then place the goat cheese log in the center. Push down slightly into the beans. Top the goat cheese with the rest of the puree and fold the plastic wrap over the top of the terrine. Refrigerate overnight (or at least 8 hours).

Carefully unmold the terrine and carefully slice crosswise so that the goat cheese center is revealed in each slice. Place slices on baking sheet and heat at 350F for 15-20 minutes or so, until heated.

Transfer each slice to a serving plate and garnish with avocado slices, fresh cilantro sprigs and lime wedges.

Wines:
Beaulieu Vineyard 2003 Merlot Napa Valley ($18). A surprise tasting favorite, with pretty plum and red berry flavors that are rich but not over the top. With supple tannins and spicy anise accents. So drinkable! Ready to drink now and over the next year or two. (Winery Spotlight 02/06)

Chumeia 2003 Merlot California ($13). Nice! Great value, with balance and finesse not usually seen at this price – particularly in a Merlot. Smooth black plum and berry flavors are laced with restrained spices, vanilla and toasty oak. Focused through the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years.

Chalone 2003 Merlot Monterey County ($15). A lot of wine for the money, with smooth red berry, toasty oak, creamy vanilla and an appealing array of herbal notes. Medium- to full-bodied. With a lush, lingering finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

3rd course: Merlot $20 and over with Veal Short Ribs
This is tender and succulent – falling from the bones good. And it’s a one-pot dish, which makes clean up a breeze! Veal short ribs are available from www.dartagnan.com or feel free to substitute beef short ribs. Serve with short pasta, like penne, that has been tossed in a splash of olive oil and sauteed spinach or kale. Serves 6-8.

3-4 pounds veal short ribs
1½ tablespoons kosher salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
½ cup vegetable oil
1 onion, diced
1 celery rib, diced
1 carrot, diced
1 bottle dry white wine, preferably Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc
1 quart chicken stock
1 cup veal stock or beef stock
20 cloves garlic, peeled
12 fresh thyme sprigs

Arrange the short ribs on a baking tray and pat dry. Season with the salt and pepper and refrigerate overnight, or at least 8 hours.

In a large, ovenproof Dutch oven (with cover), heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil over medium-high heat until hot. Sear the ribs in batches, browning well on all sides except for the bone side. Transfer the ribs to a new baking sheet or large platter and brown the remaining ribs, adding more oil as necessary.

Lower the heat under the pot to medium and add the onion, celery and carrot. Scrape the bottom of the pan with the liquid released from the vegetables to loosen any bits of meat. Increase the heat back to medium-high to evaporate the liquid and caramelize the vegetables. When the vegetables have turned golden brown, add the white wine, stirring once or twice, and cook until almost all of the wine has evaporated and the vegetables are almost dry, 20-30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350F.

Add the chicken and veal stocks to the vegetables and bring to a boil. Taste and adjust seasonings. Add garlic cloves and stir, then remove from heat.

Place the ribs, bone side down, in the pot. The liquid should cover all but a third of the meat. Don’t worry if some of the ribs are completely submerged. Add water or remove liquid, as necessary. Place thyme sprigs over meat.

Cover the pot and place in oven. Cook for two hours. Remove cover and continue baking for 15 minutes to brown the tops of the ribs. Taste and adjust seasoning, and serve.

Wines:
Chateau Ste. Michelle 2002 Merlot Columbia Valley Reserve ($36). Tightly wound, with restrained blackberry and plum flavors that are layered with exotic spices and coffee bean accents. Polished finish. Ready to drink now and over the next six or seven years.

Markham 2002 Merlot Napa Valley ($22). Ripe but not overblown, with integrated layers of aromatic red berry, tobacco, clove, toasty vanilla and cedar, with a focused, complex finish. Very nice. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Provenance 2003 Merlot Napa Valley ($35). Heady red currant and raspberry aromas and flavors are nicely balanced with fresh herbs and green olives – all on a smooth, lingering finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Provenance 2002 Merlot Beckstoffer Las Amigas Vineyard ($40). Concentrated black cherry and berry fruit is layered with pretty touches of fresh herbs, toast and tobacco. Finishes with a dusting of cocoa. Very good! Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Swanson 2002 Merlot Oakville ($34). Outstanding stuff, with elegant layers of concentrated, aromatic blackberry, blueberry and currant flavors, layered with mouthwatering spices and mocha accents that are supported by fine-grained tannins. Smooth, lush finish. Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years.