(Originally published April 2008)

Dolcetto is a red grape variety that is grown nearly exclusively in Italy’s Piedmont region. In contrast to the most famous wines of the region – Barolo, Barbaresco (both made from the Nebbiolo grape) and even Barbera-based wines – Dolcetto is generally made to be drunk in the first couple of years after bottling.

Dolcetto means “little sweet one” in Italian, and for years, it was considered to be not much more than a simple table wine, with uncomplicated, soft flavors. These days, more producers are taking care to create a deeply-colored, fruity wine with rounded tannins, black cherry and licorice notes, and a finish that includes a touch of almond skin-like bitterness.

There are several regions within Piedmont that produce Dolcetto wines, but the best known are Alba and, to a lesser extent, Ovada, where the wines can offer enough tannic structure to age nicely for some five years.

Dolcetto is a delicious wine to pair with pizza, and an array of pizzas make a fun tasting. We particularly like anchovies with our Dolcetto (which may have much to do with the popularity of the little fishies in Piedmont), but just about any toppings will do. Dolcetto is a natural partner for ham, bacon and sausage – so don’t leave those out!

Here are three Dolcettos we’ve particularly enjoyed lately:

Marchesi di Gresy 2005 Dolcetto d’Alba Monte Aribaldo ($17). Fresh red berry, cherry and floral aromas and flavors stay bright and smooth through the long, mineral-laced finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Pio Cesare 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba ($19). Round and smooth, with ripe black cherry and berry fruit laced with licorice and a touch of toasted almond. Classic Dolcetto. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Prunotto 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba ($17). Light and crisp, with blackberry aromas and flavors that pick up a touch of mineral on the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.