(Originally published October 2005)

California Cabernet Sauvignon is probably still the most prized and collectible U.S. wine, so we thought we’d create a Fall/Winter tasting dinner that pairs these big bold wines with similar flavors.

Start with the lighter wines — Cabs under $15 like the Two Tone Farms and Stone Cellars, below. Enjoy these “intro” wines with a starter like antipasti, sausage-stuffed mushrooms, or our Eggplant and Goat Cheese Rolls (recipe shown below).

For dinner, break out the majority of your wines, reserving a couple of aged bottles for the cheese course at the end of the meal. We like to go with some classic dishes for the menu – grilled or broiled steaks, our easy creamed spinach, and baked potatoes with your favorite toppings. These simple dishes showcase the wines without competing for attention – and they allow the host plenty of time to participate in the tasting, instead of slaving away in the kitchen.

After dinner, bring out a special bottle or two – preferably older selections to pair with a cheese course. We like well-aged cheeses here, such as aged Gouda, aged goat Gouda, Dry Jack, Fiore Sardo (a Sicilian sheep’s milk cheese that is similar to Romano) and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Here are a bunch of California Cabernets we’ve enjoyed lately – at a variety of prices to not only suit every budget, but also to give you an idea of what’s out there at different price points. Enjoy!

Stone Cellars 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon California ($8). Nothing particularly complex here, it’s true, but still a nice array of ripe red cherry, plum and spice flavors make for a solid quaff. Ready to drink now.

Two Tone Farm 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($10). Nice structure and winemaking — amazing at this price — with blackberry and plum fruit laced with aromatic clove and herb notes. Dry tannins persist through the finish. Ready to drink (by the case, perhaps?) now and over the next couple of years. (Weekend Wine 07/05)

Chateau St. Jean 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon California ($15). Easy drinking goodness, with spicy black cherry and blueberry fruit laced with a smooth chocolate note that persists on the moderate finish. A nice value. Ready to drink now and over the next year or two.

Louis M. Martini 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County ($15). A great deal at this price, this wine shows admirable structure. Focused blackberry and currant aromas and flavors with restrained toasty oak, light herbal notes and a dash of dusty tannins on the moderate finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. (Winery Spotlight, 08/05)

Robert Hall 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($18). Cedar-scented sweet black cherry and berry flavors pick up vanillin oak and warm spices on the moderate finish. Stays quite fruit focused throughout. Ready to drink now.

Hess Estate 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($20). Spicy oak supports black cherry and plum fruit, with tobacco, dried herbs and a peppery kick on the smooth vanillin finish. Ready to drink now.

William Hill 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($20). Cedar-scented black cherry, plum and raspberry flavors are ripe and juicy, with anise and toast accents on the nicely lingering finish. A pretty, balanced wine — not huge, but nice at this price, especially for a Napa Cab! Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. (Richard’s Picks 08/05)

Louis M. Martini 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($24). This one got a resounding “Now we’re talking” from at least one taster. Lush cassis and black cherry flavors are layered with smoke, coffee, toasty oak, and black pepper. Folds together nicely on the long, lingering finish. A nice value, too. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Fritz 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley ($35). Meaty blackberry and plum flavors are accented with aromatic tobacco and toasty, herbal oak. A big, beefy wine – steak anyone? Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Provenance 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford ($35). Outstanding stuff! Offering rich blackberry and red cherry fruit layered with sweet tobacco, cedar, rosemary and baking spices. A lovely balance between rich flavor and fresh character. Tempting now (perhaps with a little decanting) and over the next seven or eight years. (Weekend Wine 07/05)

Robert Craig 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Mt. Veeder ($50). Nicely integrated flavors and balanced structure here. With lush black cherry and plum flavors on a silky frame, picking up a touch of smoke, baking spices and licorice. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Clos du Val 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve ($95). Alluring aromas and flavors include roasted hazelnut, chocolate and espresso accents to the ripe black cherry and berry fruit. Intense, long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next seven or eight years, if not more.

RECIPES:

Eggplant and Goat Cheese Rolls
Makes 12-16 rolls

1 large eggplant
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
Olive oil and balsamic vinegar
1 large log fresh goat cheese, at room temperature

Trim and slice eggplant into ¼” slices. Spread slices on paper towels and sprinkle generously with coarse kosher salt. Let stand for about 20 minutes, then rinse well to remove salt and bitter juices that the salt has drawn out of the eggplant. Pat dry with clean paper towels.

Preheat a grill pan over high heat. Brush one side of eggplant slices with olive oil, then grill in batches, oiled side down, for about 2-3 minutes. Turn and grill for an additional two minutes. Slices should be softened but not deeply browned. Transfer eggplant to a large platter.

Season eggplant with salt and pepper. Sprinkle chopped rosemary and minced garlic over all, then sprinkle with a little balsamic vinegar. Let marinate for a couple of hours.

When ready to serve, place a dollop of softened goat cheese on the center of each slice and spread slightly. Roll slice and secure with a toothpick. Serve at room temperature.

Wine Skinny Creamed Spinach
We’ve always loved creamed spinach, but didn’t want to fool around with all that blanching and squeezing that most recipes call for. So we invented our own technique – we think it’s just as good! Quantities are approximations – use your own taste as a guide. Serves 4

2 pounds baby spinach leaves (use the prewashed bagged salad version)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 generous tablespoon flour
¼ small white onion, finely chopped
¼ to ½ cup heavy cream
1 heaping teaspoon grainy mustard
Kosher salt and cracked white pepper to taste

Roughly chop spinach.

Melt butter in a heavy, large skillet. Shake the flour over the melted butter and blend well. Add chopped spinach, onion, ¼ cream and mustard. Season with salt and pepper. Heat thoroughly. Add additional cream for the desired consistency. Adjust seasoning.