(Originally published December 2007)

If you’re looking for a departure from the “usual” Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot reds – consider exploring wines made from the Aglianico grape.

And just because you may never have heard of it, don’t assume this is some kooky, acquired taste kind of thing. Aglianico is a top quality red grape from southern Italy that makes fantastically deep wines – rich with plum and chocolate notes but with great acidity and smooth tannins that make them wonderfully food friendly.

The Aglianico grape was called Ellenico – Italian for Hellenic – for a long time (this is Italy – think in centuries) because it was thought to originate in Greece. Indeed the grape’s first known planting was near the Greek colony of Cumae, which is close to Avellino, just east of Naples. Today Aglianico is still primarily cultivated in the Avellino area, as well as other parts of Campania, but is also scattered here and there across southern Italy.

The truth is that there’s just not a whole lot of this grape planted – maybe 20,000 acres in all of Italy. (Compare that to some 250,000 acres of Sangiovese in Tuscany.) Part of the reason for its relative scarcity may be its extreme late-ripening character, with too-early picking resulting in overwhelming tannins at the expense of fruit flavors.

But when picked at the right time and vinified well, Aglianico wines are gorgeous. Those rich plum and chocolate notes can keep you reaching for another pour to go with your beef cannelloni, lamb ragout, seasonal game dish, eggplant parmesan or even moussaka.

There are two main DOCs (Italian appellations) to look for when tracking down the best Aglianico wines – Taurasi, which is part of the Campania region, and Aglianico del Vulture, which is the most famous wine of the Basilicato region. (With the Taurasi wines, the labels may only say Taurasi, and not specify the Aglianico grape, but that’s what’s in there!) You can also keep an eye open for other Campania and Basilicato reds that do not qualify for DOC status, but will still be tasty.

Given the limited quantities available, you may have to do some hunting to taste these wines. But they’re worth the trouble. Plus, they don’t have to be aged for years to be enjoyed, and the prices are generally right, with very good wines available at prices as low as twenty bucks. Remember that decent Barolos and Barbarescos tend to start at around eighty dollars, and you’ll realize what a deal Aglianico is!

One of the most widely available names to look for is Feudi di San Gregorio. This terrific winery in Campania makes a wide range of wines – and as far as we can tell, they’re all good. (Every year!)

Here are five of Feudi’s Aglianico-based wines we’ve tasted and loved lately:

Feudi di San Gregorio 2004 Aglianico Irpinia Rubrato ($19). Just lovely, with soft strawberry and red plum flavors laced with mineral and mocha on the smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2002 Aglianico del Vulture Vigne di Mezzo Efesto ($39). Delicate, with floral and mineral notes vying with light plum flavors. Dried herbal notes dominate the finish. Lacking the richness of the other Aglianicos here, but still tasty. Try with a goat cheese drizzled with lavender honey. Ready to drink now.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2003 Taurasi ($43). Intense and rich, with ripe black plum and cassis aromas and flavors that are layered with brown spices, tar and bittersweet chocolate. Stays bright and fruity through the long finish –never gives in to over-ripeness. Delicious now and over the next four or five years.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2000 Taurasi Piano di Montevergine ($62). Deep and ripe, with black plum and cherry flavors accented with rich baking spices, toasty vanilla and plenty of oak influence driving the long finish. Benefits from some decanting or additional bottle age. Drink now and over the next four or five years.

Feudi di San Gregorio 2003 Irpinia Serpico ($85). Wow – blockbuster stuff. With concentrated cherry and red berry fruit layered with toasty oak, violet, rich vanilla, leather, anise and mineral accents. Somehow manages to stay fresh through the long finish. Really good now and over the next six or seven years.