(Originally published June 2007)

I have a confession to make. When I first started hearing about Two Hands wines a few years back, this is how I added things up:

New, high-end Aussie Shiraz + Parker raves = Thick, jammy, high alcohol fruit bombs.

No thanks, I thought. Been there, had those, love your hair, hope you win.

And so I went merrily, somewhat smugly, along without tasting them.

But then, samples showed up from Terlato Wines International (nee Paterno Wines International), and what am I going to do – pour them down the drain? But to be honest (if not terribly objective), I tasted them with a bit of a preconceived idea of what I would find.

And yes, there were certainly some ripe, bold flavors. But for me, the story here (and the surprise!) is balance. From the priciest Shiraz to the spritzy Muscat – each wine offered a measure of elegance and finesse that balanced the ripe fruit character. I feel sure this has been written multiple times before, but cannot resist: A big hand for Two Hands!

Two Hands 2006 Moscato Barossa Valley Brilliant Disguise ($24). Delicate, verging on too light, with a fresh, grapey character touched with pretty floral and honeyed notes. An appealing change of pace for fresh, creamy cheeses and summer fruit desserts. Ready to drink now.

Two Hands 2005 Shiraz Barossa Valley Gnarly Dudes ($34). Intense and tightly wound, with focused black currant, blueberry, spices and toast that linger on the generous finish. Decant now. Should continue to age nicely for five or six years.

Two Hands 2005 Shiraz Barossa Valley Single Vineyard Bad Impersonator ($59). A spicy little number, with loads of black and red pepper, clove and anise supporting concentrated black plum and cherry fruit. Decant now. Should continue to age nicely for four or five years.

Two Hands 2004 Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon Barossa Valley The Bull and the Bear ($59). Loved this wine – for its mouthfilling richness, pretty black currant and racy cherry fruit, aromatic cigar box, black olive and toasted vanilla notes, and generous, lingering finish. Really delicious. Ready to drink now and over the next six or seven years.

Two Hands 2005 Shiraz Barossa Valley Bella’s Garden ($65). A “yowsa” wine, with full-bodied blackberry and black currant fruit accented with aromatic cedar, tobacco leaf, mineral and delicate spices that all linger on the persistent finish. This is a great example of the balance that Two Hands achieves – stays elegant from beginning to end. Ready to drink now and over the next eight or nine years.

Two Hands 2005 Shiraz Clare Valley Samantha’s Garden ($65). Quite feminine, actually, with focused red cherry and berry flavors layered with touches of white pepper, anise, mineral and light toast notes that all fold together on a smooth, fleshy finish. Lovely now and over the next seven or eight years.