(Originally published February 2007)

When we first visited Australia’s Yarra Valley a few years ago, there were dozens of wineries on the itinerary. Mount Mary was not included — a fact that did not escape the immediate notice of the writers on the trip. At the time, founder and winemaker Dr. John Middleton was in poor health, and we assumed that was at least part of the reason that we were not able to visit the famed winery.

And although we did have a fantastic trip — visiting beautiful wineries in the cool hills of the Yarra Valley and tasting some remarkable wines — Mount Mary was never far removed from our minds. Not wanting to offend our hosts, we writers held out for those few opportunities away from our “handlers” to seek out Mount Mary wines at local restaurants, wine bars and shops for our own private tastings. There was just no way that we had come all the way to the Yarra only to miss these wines completely!

Mount Mary gained its fame as one of Australia’s first single vineyard wines. Made in a European style in the Yarra Valley’s cool climate, Mount Mary wines have been notoriously cellar-worthy since the first vintages of the 1970s. The winery remained small and exclusive, even when the awards and market demand start piling up — a testament to Dr. Middleton’s vision and commitment.

When Dr. Middleton passed away in June of 2006, he was remembered by the wine world as a true pioneer and unique personality. As one writer put it:

He was a one off. A leader. A man who knew great wine as well as he knew his own mind. Nobody put anything over Dr John Middleton of the Mount Mary winery in the Yarra Valley, but for three decades or more he had it over just about everyone else: he was a force, and everyone knew it. He died yesterday with his family by his side, after a lengthy illness. As one of the greats of Australian winemaking though – where would the Yarra Valley as a wine region be without John Middleton and his wines? – he will never truly die. His place in Australian winemaking history will live on forever.

Dr John Middleton of Mount Mary is dead. Long live the Yarra Valley king.

Quintet is Mount Mary’s signature wine — a Cabernet Sauvignon blend (also includes dashes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot) that is always complex, elegant and structured. We recently had the opportunity to taste the 2000 and 2001 vintages, thanks to Mount Mary’s US importer, Old Bridge Cellars.

Mount Mary 2000 Quintet Yarra Valley ($145). Lithe and elegant, with pretty red fruit laced with touches of cocoa, clove, black pepper and aromatic vanilla. Still showing some acidity on the finish; should continue to drink well for three or four years.

Mount Mary 2001 Quintet Yarra Valley ($145). More dense than the relatively light 2000 vintage, this one offers more ripe fruit, but never gets anywhere near jammy or overblown. Blackberry and plum fruit are focused through the lengthy finish, picking up layers of baking spices, toast, fresh pepper and mocha. Smooth, velvety mouthfeel masks tightly wound structure beneath. Delicious now and over the next six or seven years and beyond.