(Originally published October 2003)

I recently had the pleasure of experiencing several Dom Perignon Champagnes over an exquisite lunch at Mark’s, one of Houston’s best restaurants. I say “experience” because Dom Perignon is more than just a wine – more, even, than just a Champagne.

It is history, folklore, prestige, cachet, celebration, legendary innovation, and the ultimate luxury symbol tied up in one package. “Dom” is more than a Champagne. It is the Champagne.

Dom Perignon is the cream of the crop wine from French Champagne house Moet & Chandon. Dom Perignon is produced only in exceptional vintage years – therefore Dom Perignon is always a vintage wine. All bottles of Dom Perignon are aged for a minimum of seven years, after which most of the wine is disgorged and released. The rest of the wine stays in the winery’s cellar to continue its aging process pending special orders of specific vintages or inclusion in Dom Perignon’s Oenothèque line.

The Oenothèque wines are those bottles of Dom Perignon that are disgourged and released some years after the original release date, with that many more years of aging (as many as 40 more years) “on lees” to evolve the wine.

At lunch we sampled four different evolutions of Dom Perignon, including two Oenotheque bottles.

The 1995 Dom Perignon ($120) offers beautiful, mouthwatering flavors that dance around the palate – this is an ebullient Champagne with citrus, fig, mineral and apricot skin notes that is delicious now and over the next two or three years. It paired beautifully with an extravagant dish of quail and foie gras over ginger spiked butternut squash.

Next came the 1993 Dom Perignon Rosé ($200). The coppery pink salmon color draws you in to the heady, floral bouquet, then the tightly focused citrus, mineral, red berry and baking spice flavors. It is awfully appealing now, but should get even better over the next few years. Served with ruby red ahi tuna medallions over a black pearl risotto – a feast of color and textures.

Finally, two fascinating bottles were served with the cheese course – the 1985 Dom Perignon Oenotheque ($300) and the 1973 Dom Perignon Oenotheque ($400). Having never really tasted a Champagne older than about ten years or so, this was all new territory for me.

The 1985 was a medium-yellow color and offered round, rich honeyed fig fruit layered with complex hints of toasted hazelnut, yeast, wet earth and chalk.

The 1973 was an eye-opener. I kept thinking that the bouquet and flavors had taken on the qualities of a mature red wine – what with all the tobacco and game and roasted coffee notes. Combine these with the full, brioche driven body and classic citrus and mineral notes of a vintage Champagne and it was really a knockout experience that everyone should have – at least once!