(Originally published June 2007)

Ed Sbragia has been making wine for Beringer Vineyards for some 30 years, taking the winery’s Private Reserve Cabernet, Chardonnay, vineyard designated wines, Howell Mountain Merlot and the delicious late-harvest dessert wine, Nightingale (in our opinion, one of the very best in California) to a level of consistent excellence that few wineries can match.

In 2002, Sbragia founded his own label using his family vineyard in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley. These days, he’s dividing his time between both wineries – spending the work week at Beringer with winemakers Laurie Hook, Peter Heitz and Chris Louton, whom Sbragia calls “the best winemakers he knows,” and weekends working at the “home ranch.”

At Sbragia Family Vineyards, he’s making Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon – mostly from the “home ranch,” but also using a small amount of grapes purchased through long-time relationships (including the family doctor).

Sbragia makes the wine alongside son Adam, with the rest of the family pitching in, too. You get the feeling that the entire operation, including the wines, is a real labor of love infused with a deep sense of coming home. As Sbragia himself says, “Life is good!”

Not surprisingly, the wines are getting some pretty nice marks… We recently tasted a few of the new releases – here are our notes:

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch ($20). Juicy pineapple and other aromatic tropical fruit flavors are fresh and vibrant, with touches of lemongrass and cream on the long finish. Ready to drink now.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2005 Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch ($25). Very nice, with smoky oak underlying peach, pear and lemon zest flavors that are ripe but elegant, with dashes of caramel, cinnamon and clove emerging on the finish. Ready to drink now.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2004 Merlot Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch ($25). Aromatic, dusty cocoa laces smooth black cherry and plum flavors, with chocolate and coffee notes on the generous finish. Easy to like. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2004 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Gino’s Vineyard ($28). Appealing for its polished red cherry, strawberry, black pepper, toast and cloves notes that mingle nicely though the long, juicy finish. Nothing shy here, but nothing out of balance, either. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley Andolsen Vineyard ($35). Smoky cedar aromas and flavors accent concentrated blackberry and currant fruit, with dried herbs, espresso and toast emerging through the focused finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Learn more about Sbragia Family Vineyards and their wines at www.sbragia.com.