(Originally published December 2006)

Miljenko “Mike” Grgich first gained international recognition at the celebrated 1976 “Paris Tasting.” In a now-historic blind tasting, a panel of eminent French judges sampled an array of white Burgundies and a small number of “upstart” Chardonnays from the Napa Valley. When their scores were tallied, the French judges were shocked: they had chosen Mike’s 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay as the finest white wine in the world.

The Paris Tasting not only established Mike’s reputation, but did quite a lot to launch California wines on a world stage.

Shortly thereafter, Mike teamed up with Austin Hills and his sister, Mary Lee Strebl, from the Hills Bros. Coffee family, and on Independence Day 1977, they founded Grgich Hills winery.

Grgich Hill’s signature wine is still its Chardonnay, but these days it also makes outstanding Fume Blanc, Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Mike continues to oversee daily operations at Grgich Hills, and while many other Napa wineries pursue expansion strategies, Grgich Hills intends to stay small and concentrate on quality.

We’ve recently been reminded of the great wines that Grgich Hills winery has been producing for decades. Across the board quality is key here, with balance and structure showing in every bottle.

Grgich Hills 2005 Fumé Blanc Napa Valley ($25). Sophisticated, serious wine here, with layers of grapefruit, lime blossom, kaffir lime leaves, slate and touches of smoke and spice. Ready to drink now and over the next year or two. (Wine Tasting 08/06)

Grgich Hills 2004 Chardonnay Napa Valley Estate Grown ($38). Elegant and beautifully structured, offering crisp, aromatic pear and nectarine fruit with touches of wildflower honey, citrus zest and mineral that mingle on the long, complex finish. (Weekend Wine 10/06)

Grgich Hills 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($58). Black cherry and blackberry aromas and flavors are accented with cracked black pepper and freshly grated spices, along with nicely integrated, rich oak character. Stays bright and focused through the mouthwatering finish. Absolutely delicious! Ready to drink now and over the next six or seven years. (Robyn’s Picks 10/06)

Grgich Hills 2004 Zinfandel Napa Valley Estate Grown ($28). Ripe and peppery, but not one of those thick, jammy Zins. With focused blackberry and wild raspberry, anise, spicy vanilla and a kick of black pepper on the lengthy finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Learn more about Grgich Hills and its wines at www.grgich.com.