(Originally published December 2005)

When asked about our favorite California Pinot Noir makers, the answer is a pretty short list. Too often, it seems, California Pinot Noir is overly ripe and heavy – lacking in the nuances and delicate complexities that are present in great Pinots. There are, however, a few producers that manage to capture the beauty and grace in this elusive, sometimes exasperating, grape – Arcadian, with owner/winegrower Joe Davis at the helm, is one of them.

Using traditional French methods, Davis has been creating Burgundian style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay since he founded Arcadian in 1996. An array of single vineyard Pinots are remarkable for their distinct, consistent personalities – even in the face of varying vintage conditions. Arcadian’s Chardonnays are lush but never overblown, with focus and purity and judicial use of oak. Arcadian has also introduced Syrah to the range – also French in style, with Rhone-reminiscent earthiness.

Arcadian also makes the short list of “can’t go wrong” wineries, if you ask us. Any time. Any place. Try an Arcadian wine if you have the chance!

We recently tasted through a bunch of current releases – here are our notes!

Arcadian 2002 Chardonnay Santa Lucia Highlands Sleepy Holllow Vineyard ($30). Tightly wound and focused, with fragrant lime blossom and hazelnut grace notes on the pretty pear and crisp stonefruit flavors. Picks up mineral on the complex, slightly creamy finish. Nice supporting acidity throughout. Should age beautifully. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Arcadian 2002 Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($40). Pretty and smooth, with medium-bodied black cherry and red berry flavors that persist through the finish, along with warm, spicy, toasty oak and a touches of mushroom and fresh herbs. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Arcadian 2002 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Dierberg Vineyard ($NA). Lively, almost racy, with exuberant red raspberry and cherry flavors laced with white pepper, rose petal, and a touch of freshly grated nutmeg. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years.

Arcadian 2002 Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills Fiddlestix Vineyard ($50). Positively velvety in texture, with smooth, ripe black cherry and berry flavors accented with spicy-floral and appealing earthy notes. Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years.

Arcadian 2001 Pinot Noir Monterey Pisoni Vineyard ($75). As in years past, the Pisoni is a model of balance and structure, with integrated, harmonious flavors and aromas that include supple blackberry, rich plum and spices, pretty toasty, smoky oak, mushroom, cedar and anise. Lush, lingering finish that continues to evolve. Delicious now and over the next six or seven years.

Arcadian 2002 Syrah Santa Lucia Highlands Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($NA). Intense and concentrated, with aromatic earth and game accents to the dusty black currant fruit. Long finish stays intense and picks up black pepper, licorice and coffee notes. Ready to drink now and over the next three to five years.

Learn more about Arcadian and its wine — and order wine from the winery — at www.arcadianwinery.com.