(Originally published October 2005)

Petite Sirah is still a bit of a mystery to most people, and it’s no wonder. After years of experts claiming that the Petite Sirah grape had no relationship to the Syrah grape, scientists have now issued an about-face and connected the grape DNA dots. Beyond this, there just isn’t much of the stuff made; so many people have not had much opportunity to taste it. Finally, Petite Sirah, when you can find it, can be overly alcoholic and jammy.

But when it’s good? Absolutely delicious. Inky dark, with loads of body and flavor and tannins, this is a wine for hard core red wine lovers. It pairs best with simply prepared grilled meats and, especially, game. Think venison stew. Wild boar chops. Grilled squab and quail. There’s something about smoky foods that beautifully enhance these jammy, spicy, voluptuous wines. Smoked cheeses work pretty well, too – smoked, aged Gouda being a great example.

We recently rounded up a slew of Petite Sirahs, gathered a group of willing victims, got everyone good and liquored up, and sent them on their way… No, seriously. It was great fun lining up a bunch of these babies, with prices that ranged from $10 to nearly $50, and tasting through the lot. There were several surprises at all price levels – here are our notes!

Parducci 2002 Petite Sirah California ($10). Nice! Grapey and ripe, with red cherry, pepper and baking spices, and toasty oak flavors. A heck of a deal, if not overly complex. Ready to drink now.

Marr Cellars 2001 Petite Sirah California Cuvee Patrick ($13). Dried cherry and wild berry flavors are backed by dusty tannins and a slightly austere finish. Needs food, but still an overall appealing wine and a good value. Ready to drink now.

Concannon 2003 Petite Sirah Central Coast ($15). Slightly simpler than expected, but still appealing for its ripe red fruit flavors, warm spices and toasty oak. Easy to drink now and over the next year or two.

Pedroncelli 2001 Petite Sirah Dry Creek Valley Family Vineyards ($15). A little funky earth laces the ripe black cherry and blackberry flavors and aromas, picking up dashes of mocha and black pepper along with dusty tannins on the moderate finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Spellbound 2002 Petite Sirah California ($15). Sweet cherry and red berry fruit is okay, but lacking in the oomph and spice that Petite Sirah should offer. Ready to drink now.

Foppiano 2003 Petite Sirah Russian River Valley Bacigalupi Vineyard ($18). Fruity and lighter than expected, with a slightly carbonated character. Ready to drink now.

Guenoc 2001 Petite Sirah North Coast ($18). Very good — black currant and plum and blueberry with baking spices and toast vanilla.

Foppiano 2002 Petite Sirah Russian River Valley ($23). Appealing blackberry and plum flavors are laced with mocha, a dash of earth, and dusty tannins. Moderate finish stays focused. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years.

Marr Cellars 2002 Petite Sirah California Tehama Foothills ($28). Quite nice, with lush chocolatey notes weaving through ripe red berry and cherry fruit, cinnamon and allspice, and a subtle kick of black pepper on the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years.

Rosenblum 2003 Petite Sirah Napa Valley Pickett Road ($28). Rich and deep, with blackberry and black currant fruit layered with mushroom, wet earth, vanilla and mineral notes. Big tannic structure supports a long meaty finish. Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years.

Trentadue 2002 Petite Sirah Alexander Valley ($28). Slurpably delish, with an appealing array of flavors and aromas that include focused blackberry and black cherry, anise, a little earth, a little leather and toasty oak. Nice, bright acidity keeps things lively. Finishes long and lush. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Trentadue 2003 Petite Sirah Alexander Valley La Storia ($28). Big and ripe, with black cherry and blueberry jam, plenty o’ alcohol, and a peppery, bold finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Miro 2003 Petite Sirah Dry Creek Valley Coyote Ridge Vineyard ($30). Ripe, jammy black cherry and blackberry flavors are layered with complex, aromatic spices and a dash of mocha. Long, slightly dusty finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years.

Silkwood 2002 Petite Sirah Stanislaus County ($36). Elvis has left the building! All the red velvet and gold label and award stickers and super heavy bottle built up expectations for a larger than life wine. Instead, this one was a little on the light side, with moderate, smooth red cherry and plum flavors, a dash of baking spices and toasty oak. Ready to drink now.

Lolonis 2001 Petite Sirah Redwood Valley Orpheus Heritage Vineyard ($40). Cherry, cracked black pepper and barnyard aromas and flavors are on the clunky side, particularly at this price. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

Concannon 2001 Petite Sirah Livermore Valley Heritage ($45). Very good – and worth the splurge price. With deftly balanced jammy fruitt – think blackberry and black cherry – leading the way for smoky black pepper, fresh earth and spicy oak nuances. What a high-end Petite Sirah should be! Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years.