This unoaked Chardonnay from Australia overcomes its cumbersome moniker and delivers refreshing, pure, affordable pleasure. It’s versatile, too — easy to like on its own, but with enough substance to pair with food. Enjoy!

Plantagenet 2008 Unoaked Chardonnay Western Australia Omrah ($15). Crisp green pear and light, smooth melon character are accented with generous zip of aromatic citrus acidity, with a clean, bright finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Edoardo Seghesio planted his first Zinfandel vineyard in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley in 1895. Since then, four generations of the Seghesio family have tended over 400 acres of vineyards in Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. The winery’s range of Zinfandel bottlings offer remarkable terroir-based differences – and honestly, they’re all good. I think the “entry level” Sonoma Zin is one of the most consistently tasty, reasonably priced and widely available Zinfandels on the market.

I recently tasted a bunch of the current vintages — here are my notes on my three favorites:

Seghesio 2008 Zinfandel Sonoma County ($25). Lipsmacking red berry and dried cherry aromas and flavors pick up touches of vanilla, fresh herbs and black pepper through the bright finish. Shows some grip at the end. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Seghesio 2008 Zinfandel Alexander Valley Home Ranch ($36). Slick cassis and deep blackberry character from start to finish. Stays concentrated through the jammy finish, with accents of dried herbs, black licorice and peppercorn. Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Seghesio 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Cortina ($36). This may have been my favorite of the tasting, with its pretty blackberry and black cherry fruit and array of nuances, including pastry crust, mocha, aromatic baking spices and smooth, rich finish. There’s something savory here, too… Really good. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Here’s an easy way to elevate a quick lamb chop dinner — though this coffee/fresh herb rub is also quite tasty on beef, too!

Recipes: Meat: Coffee-Crusted Lamb Chops
You can also use this dry rub for an entire rack of lamb, or on your favorite cut of beef. Serves 2. Quantities are easily multiplied for larger crowds or hungrier appetites!

1/4 cup ground coffee
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme
2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon minced fresh Italian parsley
1/2 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper
1/2 tablespoon kosher salt
2 thick rib lamb chops
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Mix the first six ingredients together and evenly coat the lamb chops. (You may have extra rub leftover — just discard.)

Heat the vegetable oil in a large sauté pan oven medium-high heat. Add the lamb chops, being careful not to move them around too much. Cook on each side 3 minutes for medium-rare.

Pinot Noir to go with:

Robert Mondavi 2008 Pinot Noir Carneros ($27). A big, ripe, fruit-forward style, with plush blackberry jam and pretty red cherry and berry flavors and aromas. Picks up touches of spice and cream through the smooth finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Plantagenet 2008 Pinot Noir Western Australia Omrah ($17). Intense red berry and cherry character play off dashes of deep spice, mocha and earth notes that linger on the generous finish. Add some roasted wild mushrooms to the lamb for a pairing made in Pinot Noir heaven! Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-12-01)

Fess Parker 2008 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County ($27). Appealing for its array of bright, racy red raspberry and concentrated cherry notes, along with black tea and warm spices that mingle through the smooth, lightly toasty finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Summer’s not over yet — this intense white is perfect for the last weeks of the season! More substantial than just a “patio wine” but still juicy and refreshing. Enjoy!

Robert Mondavi 2008 Fume Blanc Napa Valley ($20). Concentrated and crisp, offering a core of juicy peach accented with aromatic lemon zest, fresh herbal notes and generous spice notes that linger on the smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

As I’ve mentioned a couple of times here, I’ve lately been tasting through a slew of under-$20 California Merlots. And as I’ve also said, it hasn’t been pretty… But I did manage to unearth a handful that I genuinely enjoyed — nothing cough-syrupy about these:

Kendall-Jackson 2007 Merlot Sonoma County Vintner’s Reserve ($19). Very nice, actually, with layers of deep plum and black cherry, dried herbs and sweet, exotic spices that linger on a sophisticated, complex finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Simi 2006 Merlot Sonoma County ($19). Smooth and plush, with deep plum and black cherry fruit accented with clove, fresh herbs and mocha notes. Made a lovely pairing for pan roasted veal chops. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Rutherford Ranch 2007 Merlot Napa Valley ($17). This one’s a nice surprise, with smooth, medium-bodied red cherry, blueberry and fresh herbal notes, picking up appealing spice and toasty vanilla on the bright finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-12-08)

Clos du Bois 2007 Merlot North Coast ($15). This one was a nice surprise, with rich red cherry and a respectably complex finish — currant, tobacco and cigar box notes mingling with toast. Try with a pre-dinner nibble like toasted pumpernickel slathered with herb-bathed chevre. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Round Hill 2008 Merlot California ($8). Easily the best under-$10 Merlot I tasted, offering admirable dryness and juicy, smooth red and blue berry fruit flavors laced with light smoke, spice and toast. A perfectly acceptable quaff. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Here’s an absolutely gorgeous red that would pair beautifully with just about anything you might care to grill during the last few weeks of summer — but I would also highly recommend stocking up for autumnal braises, stews and roasts. (Or at least buy one for a holiday feast.)

Chateau Mont-Redon 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($35). Deep and concentrated, offering intense cherry and black currant flavors layered with touches of kirsch, licorice, baking spices and black pepper. With a focused, fruity finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 10 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

The $20-line seems to be an important one in the world of California Merlot. Cross under it, and the odds are stacked against you. But venture above it, and you significantly up your chances of getting pretty, smooth, nuanced flavors. Like this bright, rich Napa Valley number:

Freemark Abbey 2007 Merlot Napa Valley ($25). Intense, bright, flavorful blackberry, black cherry and juicy plum aromas and flavors are accented with aromatic cedar, whole spices and vanilla notes before streamlining into a dry, smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.